July 14, 2006
By Brian Berkman
Special guests at the Ritz Carlton Hotel in Kuala Lumpur have their initials embroidered on the pillow slips. I remember the feeling of luxury resting my weary head on BB each night I stayed there.
Imagine the thrill then of alighting the Blue Train at Cape Town Station and seeing my initials at every possible opportunity.
There were Bs engraved on the windows and glasses in the dining car; Bs woven into the carpet and etched into the metal work; Bs embroidered all over the crisp white duvet set and pillow cases and the fluffy towels; Bs printed on the stationery, coasters and cocktail napkins. I was in ego heaven.
Checking in at the purpose-built Blue Train lounge near Platform 24 was like arriving at a Grand Hotel in a crumbling neighbourhood. Looking past the red carpet, potted palms, shiny brass luggage trolleys to the bustle of the station, is little like superimposing Clifton on Crossroads - at once startling and intriguing.
The size of the lounge gives an indication of both the luxury that awaits and the number of people the train can carry - 74 or 82 guests depending on the train's configuration.
One set, currently being restored after a recent crash and looting, has an observation car and conference car while both have beautifully appointed Club cars - for smoking and game playing and plush Lounge cars with bar.
Sitting in deep chairs and couches - perhaps more suited to a corporate lobby than a check-in lounge, Hennie, the F&B manager, comes to introduce himself and check any dining proclivities. Refreshments are offered and we're alerted to a table laden with sweets and savories.
More notable than any other aspect of the Blue Train experience is the food - both in quality and quantity and, if your capacity allows, it could be a non-stop eat and drink fest.
With the exception of caviar and French champagne, food and drink onboard is included in the price.
At lunch, shortly after leaving Cape Town at 11am, we started with a bottle of Graham Beck Brut as a starter, moved to Meerlust 2003 Chardonnay with the game pate, perhaps more quickly than usual as we were neither driving nor paying, while with our Karoo lamb chops, served on waterblommetjie mash with butter-tossed summer vegetables we had a bottle of Meerlust Rubicon 1993. Cheese came next as did the magnificent Vin de Constance. Dessert was a baked pear.
The magical Mosa - our 30-something butler had, while we were dining, converted our walnut-panelled lounge suite into a double bed with the most glorious white percale linen
. Even after a restorative nap my lunch excesses prevented me from enjoying High Tea.
Had I, perhaps, been in a better mood (read less hung over) the afternoon excursion around Matjiesfontein would have been less excruciating. I'd recommend folks who exceed at lunch to rather do their own wandering around than attend the tour and associated buffoonery.
Unlike the famous Eastern & Orient Express, the Blue Train feels motionless as it glides with just a hint of rocking. The difference in experience is the engine and the 60km/h at which it travels during the day.
The Blue Train is costly. You'll each be paying around R350 an hour that you are there but considering it is a special occasion experience and compares in price to a week's stay on an island, it is a good choice for honeymooners or executives looking for a short, but very relaxing break.
Aside from the excursion at Matjiesfontein, the 30 hours are spent on board. We opted for a double bed and bath configuration instead of twin beds and a shower and as the train wasn't very busy on our visit, we were offered another suite to use as a study. Without exception the service was outstanding.
There was a term used in the army to describe the type of conscript who paid extra attention to the crease lines of his shirt, or seemed to want to volunteer ahead of others. He would be described or derided as being paraat - that odd combination of feeling proud and bullish, haughty but without the attitude.
This was how I felt about the Blue Train: in its 60th anniversary I experienced it as world-class as the Eastern & Orient Express with levels of luxury and service that rivalled some of the best in five-star hotels here and abroad.
To hear the mostly American guests on board coo and ahh about our beautiful landscape - the stretch from the Cape to the Karoo the most arresting - and witness the crew perform silver service with the
dignity and aplomb of ladies and gentlemen serving ladies and gentlemen left me paraat.
The Blue Train is described as a "Window to the Soul of South Africa". I recommend it to locals as a travel choice before taking a trip abroad. Cheap at the price.
See www.BlueTrain.co.za
  
 
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