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Banking on style
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May 7, 2009
By Helen Grange
Bankers are public enemy number one in the gripping thriller The International, but, let's face it, you can't fault them on their ability to impress with dress.
As the movie reflects, this is one fraternity you can’t spot the bad guys in. In it, Interpol agent Louis Salinger (Clive Owen) and Manhattan assistant district attorney Eleanor Whitman (Naomi Watts) are determined to bring to justice one of the world’s most powerful banks and, in the process, uncover myriad illegal activities.
As they find themselves in a high-stakes chase across the globe, from Berlin to Milan to New York to Istanbul, Salinger and Whitman encounter numerous smooth operators, and smooth dressers, apparently the hallmark of this trend-conscious sector.
As for Owen, well, he’s no slouch either. With smouldering intensity and noble cause, he’s a dashing
number-cruncher with a penchant for picking pucker threads, turning heads with a cocky stride and a flailing
trenchcoat.
Crisp shirts and tailored suits offset by ties offering a tasteful dash of colour – that’s the scene in the banking
halls of the world’s financial capitals, including Johannesburg.
Our own icon of banking style has long been the governor of the Reserve Bank, Tito Mboweni, he of the handmade suits by Johannesburg tailor Peter Reso, a favourite among merchant bankers, and superbly tailored shirts with his initials embroidered on the pocket.
But striding hot on Tito’s heels is a posse of younger bankers, among them Happy Ntshingila, Absa executive director of marketing and communications.
His wardrobe bears testimony to a man who likes to have a little fun with the corporate dress paradigm, going light, sometimes bright, but ever vigilant of what works and what doesn’t.
“I’ve got a rack of clothes, yes, and it’s arranged by colour code,” he admits with a smile.
Clothes being important, Ntshingila had dressing room racks custom designed for him when he was building his home. “In my previous home I’d had a shoe problem, so now there are racks under the dresser for shoes, including my golf shoes which are awkward to store because of the spikes.”
This prompts the question of how many pairs he has, but he’s not going there, except to stress that he favours good quality lace-ups and stays well away from the currently fashionable long-toed variety, or “BEE shoes” as he jocularly calls them. Anything else he doesn’t like?
“I don’t do personalised number plates,” he smiles.
At Absa head office in the CBD on any weekday except Friday, you’ll see Ntshingila in dapper suits in black or dusky grey with white shirts, sometimes brightened by a
silk tie. He’s a loyal shopper at Grays in Sandton, which has become a touchstone for South African businessmen
seeking an impeccable professional image. The shop retails top Italian labels like Zegna and Brioni, both of whichNtshingila has lots of, along with Aigner (German) and Façonnable (French).
He also has a couple of Versace suits, a few tailored shirts – “these you can really feel on your body” – and his cufflinks (he likes the funky cloth ones) are mostly from the House of Camisa in Hyde Park, where Mboweni gets a lot of his ties.
On Fridays, he “goes casual”, but not T-shirt casual.
“I’ll wear maybe a light-coloured, collared golf shirt. I think business people should be allowed to break out of conservative, corporate-style dressing, within limits. In Absa’s marketing department, I’m noticing some cutting-edge style – shirts worn Madiba style over designer jeans, that sort of thing. Go for it, I say,” he smiles.
Ntshingila sets trends on the golf course as well, which is where you’ll find him much of his leisure time. “I’m not as wild as Ian Poulter, but I like bright colours for golf. My philosophy is if you can’t play well, at least look like you can,” he laughs.
As to accessories, anyone close to Ntshingila will tell you he has a weakness for watches, and enjoys finding one to fit an occasion.
Once he’s donned his shades, pocketed his iPhone and dabbed on some Hermes aftershave, Ntshingila is ready for the world.
Corporate clues
Haydee Antezana of Professional Impressions gives the following tips:
Wear colours and styles that enhance your body type and complexion.
Buy the best quality you can afford. It will pay off in the long term.
Make sure the fit is impeccable. Poorly-fitting clothes sends out a message of being "unprofessional, unpolished and lacking attention to detail". Have garments altered - a jacket that's too long; pants that are too short - before wearing them.
Don't distract from your verbal message with dirty nails, overpowering aftershave or long nose hairs.
The widest part of your tie should equal the widest part of the lapel of your jacket.
Tie length should end within the width of your belt buckle.
Never draw the eye to a problem spot on your body. For example, if you have a large belly, stay away from double-breasted jackets.
Attract attention towards your face with an attractive shirt and tie combination.
Tall or long-legged men look best in cuffed (turn-ups) pants. Shorter men are best in trousers without cuffs.
Wear outfits with minimal colour contrast between top and bottom pieces to provide the illusion that you are taller and slimmer.
Iron a crease down the front of your pants to slim your legs and make them appear longer.
Keep facial hair to a minimum. Research has shown that people trust men with facial hair less than the clean-shaven ones.
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